Changing characteristics of modification of wave in moves the deep water to shallow water

Sea waves are mainly created by wind. In the friction of the wind, the waves move to the shore. Much energy is released by the waves to shore. When the sea waves reaches from the deep sea to the shallow sea, the characteristics of the wave changes according to friction of water particles, such as the wave length, wave velocity, wave period, wave power, wave height etc. Changing characteristics of modification of wave in moves the deep water to shallow water follow-

(i).Wave Length: Wavelength is the horizontal distance separating two wave crests or two wave troughs.

                                   The wave length decreases gradually from the deep sea to the shallow sea. Deep sea waves lengths are meant because deep sea wave lengths to be very large. The relatively small waves in the shallow sea are easily understood.

(ii). Wave Celerity/Velocity (C): In the shallow seas, the velocity of the waves decreases for the friction of the ocean floor. In the deep sea, single wave velocity is higher than ground wave velocity. But when it comes to the shallow sea, this two wave become equal because the single wave velocity is gradually decreases when it comes to shallow sea.   

(iii). Wave Period (T): The time it takes for one complete wavelength to pass a stationary point. When the wave velocity decreases, the wave length decreases so wave period remain same.

(iv). Wave Power (P): The wave power in the sea waves does not increase at all, stay the same.

(v). Wave Height: When dept of the water is decreases, single wave velocity (C) also decreases, but wave power (P) remain same. So the wave height gradually increases in the shallow sea.

vi). Orbital Movement of Water Particle:  As the wave form moves across the sea surface the water particles beneath also move, but since they rotate around closed orbits there is no net forward displacement of the water particles. The orbital diameter of the water particles will decrease with depth. Whenever wave goes toward the coasts with decreasing depth the vertical axis of water particles decrease & horizontal axis become more increase & laminar. After breaking the wave parallel movement of water happened near coasts. 

Fig: Orbital Movement of Water Particle.