Skip to main content

Changing characteristics of modification of wave in moves the deep water to shallow water

Sea waves are mainly created by wind. In the friction of the wind, the waves move to the shore. Much energy is released by the waves to shore. When the sea waves reaches from the deep sea to the shallow sea, the characteristics of the wave changes according to friction of water particles, such as the wave length, wave velocity, wave period, wave power, wave height etc. Changing characteristics of modification of wave in moves the deep water to shallow water follow-
(i).Wave Length: Wavelength is the horizontal distance separating two wave crests or two wave troughs.
                                   The wave length decreases gradually from the deep sea to the shallow sea. Deep sea waves lengths are meant because deep sea wave lengths to be very large. The relatively small waves in the shallow sea are easily understood.
(ii). Wave Celerity/Velocity (C): In the shallow seas, the velocity of the waves decreases for the friction of the ocean floor. In the deep sea, single wave velocity is higher than ground wave velocity. But when it comes to the shallow sea, this two wave become equal because the single wave velocity is gradually decreases when it comes to shallow sea.   
(iii). Wave Period (T): The time it takes for one complete wavelength to pass a stationary point. When the wave velocity decreases, the wave length decreases so wave period remain same.
(iv). Wave Power (P): The wave power in the sea waves does not increase at all, stay the same.
(v). Wave Height: When dept of the water is decreases, single wave velocity (C) also decreases, but wave power (P) remain same. So the wave height gradually increases in the shallow sea.

vi). Orbital Movement of Water Particle:  As the wave form moves across the sea surface the water particles beneath also move, but since they rotate around closed orbits there is no net forward displacement of the water particles. The orbital diameter of the water particles will decrease with depth. Whenever wave goes toward the coasts with decreasing depth the vertical axis of water particles decrease & horizontal axis become more increase & laminar. After breaking the wave parallel movement of water happened near coasts. 
Fig: Orbital Movement of Water Particle.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Concentric zone theory

Theories of City Structure-Concentric Zone Theory Introduction: The Concentric or Zonal Theory of urban landuse was first proposed in 1923 by E.W. Burgess. He was a sociologist. The idea behind the concentric model is that the development of a city takes place outwards from its central area in a series of concentric circles to form zones.  Assumption:        i.           Cultural & social heterogeneity of the population.       ii.           Commercial-industrial base to the economy of the city.     iii.           Private ownership of property & economic competition for space.     iv.           Expanding area & population of the city.       v.    ...

Sources of Water Mass

Sub-surface water masses formation is more active in the North & South Atlantic & the South Pacific & moderately active in the North Pacific. The sub-surface water masses is not active in the Indian Ocean because of its location in the southern hemisphere. The following arte major source areas of the origin of subsurface water masses-                                            i.           Norwegian Sea Area,                                           ii.           Irminger ...

T-S Diagram

Definition: The diagram by which the salinity & temperature of the sea water are expressed is called T-S diagram. Prepared: T-S Diagram was prepared by Helland Harsenin (1916) with the objective to  determine the density of water at various depth. Characteristics: The Temperature ‘T’ & Salinity ‘S’ observed at the particular depth are represented by a single point in this diagram. The plotted points of T & S generally fall on a well defined curve, in which temperature & salinity decrease together. The density of water tends to increase with depth. In T-S Diagram, it may be observed that many combinations of temperature & salinity can yield the same density. In T-S Diagram, it may be observed that the density of water tends to increase with depth.  Diagrammatic Example: Significance: The T-S Diagram is a tool of great utility in Oceanography. The T-S Diagram is the way to visualize layering of water. The T-S Diagram helps in t...