Definition:
Undulation of surface water of sea by alternate crest & trough is called wave.
Types:
The classification of sea wave depends on different aspect.
A.Based on wave frequency:
Based on wave frequency, wave divided in to 6 types. These are discuss below-
(i). Capillary wave:
Capillary wave generated by surface tension. It’s almost flat wave. It’s wave length – 20 mm. It’s wave height – 2mm. It’s wave period – 0.001-0.1 second.
(ii). Gravitational wave:
Gravitational waves generated by wind. Such wave is swash. It’s waves length – 1000 m. It’s waves height – 50 m. It’s waves period – 0.10-100 second.
(iii). Infra Gravitation wave:
Infra gravitational waves generated as a result of their interrelationship between swash & backwash.(iv). (iv). Long Period Wave:
Long period waves accumulated energy. These kind waves travel faster & can easily cope with local winds & currents. As a resulting in larger surf when it comes to average wave height. The duration of this waves 1- few hours.
(v). Ordinary Tide wave:
Ordinary tide wave is generated by tide. It’s frequency twice a day. The duration of this waves - 12 hour 56 minute.
(vi). Trans-Tidal wave:
Trans-Tidal wave occur when the water depth is less than one-half the wavelength. This type of wave occurs after several days. Tsunami wave is this kind wave.
B.Based on origin:
Based on origin, wave divided in to 3 types. These are discuss below-
(i). Tidal wave:
Tidal wave is a regularly re-occurring shallow water wave caused by effects of the gravitational interactions between the Sun, Moon, & Earth on the ocean.
(ii). Seismic wave:
Seismic wave is a high-speed wave set off by an earthquake, landslide, or volcanic eruption & towering on reaching some coasts. There are two types-
(a). Sound wave:
Sound wave is the wave that occurs due to movement of ocean water by earthquake in the ocean floor.
(b). Tsunami wave:
Tsunami wave is a series of wave caused by earthquakes or under sea volcanic eruptions. Tsunami waves do not resemble undersea current or sea waves because their wavelength is far longer.
(iii). Wind wave:
Most of sea waves are caused by wind. Sea water is finely lifted due to wind flow & the friction of the waves increases with the wind flow. Different variations of ocean waves can be observed as a result of the transfer of wind & wave energy.
C. Based on Nature of work:
When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach, this is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach, which is called the backwash. Depending on swash & backwash energy, waves divided into two types. These are-
(i). Constructive wave:
If the swash is stronger than the backwash, then transmitted corrosive
substances is deposited on the beach by wave & expends the structure
of the beach. This is called the constructive wave.
(ii). Destructive wave:
If the backwash is stronger than the swash, than waves erode the coastline
& throw the corrosive substances into the deep sea. This is called the
destructive wave.
D.Based on Energy:
Based on energy, waves divided into two types. These are-
(i). Sea wave/Wind wave:
The wave which actually receive energy from the wind.
(ii). Swell wave:
The wave which not receive the energy from the wind but they are dispersing & decaying equivalent of sea wave.
E.Based on Physical character particle rotation & mode of oscillation:
Osciallatory wave and Translatory wave |
(i). Oscillatory wave:
In the oscillatory wave water particles circulate in circular orbit in deep ocean or deep water & the circular orbit gradually becomes elliptical towards the coast.
(a). Progressive wave:
Progressive wave actually moves forward the coast or shallow ocean.
Progressive wave |
(b). Standing wave:
The standing wave don’t move forward, the water level in standing wave rises up & sinks down at the same position.
Standing wave |
(ii). Translatory wave:
At the shallow ocean as depth of water gradually decrease towards the coasts circular orbit of the water particle becomes elliptical where the horizontal axis component movement exes the vertical axis component movement. After the breaking of wave water flows horizontally upslope without any orbit movement. This wave as translatory wave.
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